2024 VIWF Night 2 – Piedmont

Well, I survived Piedmont!

Young Nebbiolo times are always tough to taste, especially Barolos and Barbarescos, as they are tight, tannic and built to age.

But somebody had to do it!

Started with a couple of whites again, from Casale del Giglio in Lazio. ’22 Satrico Bianco an unbaked blend of Ch and SB, very crisp and dry. ’22 Anthium Bellone is Indigenous to the area, similar style, very nice.

Then into the breach…did about 15 Bsrbarescos and Barolos! My mouth was purple!

As expected, both the Barbarescos and Barolos were big and tannic. Mostly ’18s and ’19s, so no surprise there. I did find the Barolo from Marchesi di Barolo surprisingly accessible, as was the ’19 Barbaresco from Pio Cesare. Best value was probably the ’18 Barolo Lecinquevigne from Damilano…great balance, years ahead of it, and $65 (which is value for Barolo!).

Had to then check out some BC Syrahs…just because…

’21 Mooncurser another strong vintage, peppery black fruit, and some firm tannins. ’20 Qwam Qwpt Syrah from Nk Mip was also gorgeous, perfect for drinking now.

And that was it! 22 wines in all, about half of yesterday, but still a good evening.

Can’t wait for next year!

Stephen

VIWF Tastings Night 1 – Tuscany

Really impressed with the VIWF last night!

My focus was mostly on Tuscany (after the usual search and buy at the onsite store…wines often sell out before first night is over!)

I actually started with some whites, as I needed one for a scallop pasta tonight. Tried a couple of Pecorinos…thought that was just a cheese! A winery owner explained that the grape was named after the sheep that frequent the vineyards…who knew? Talamonti had a couple of really nice ones, as did Umani Ronchi. No oak, crisp, dry and surprisingly full bodied!

From there, on to Tuscany!

Lots of Chianti- Classico, Riserva, and Grand Selezione. I’m general, they became increasingly tannic as you moved up…some almost too tannic to enjoy now. Reinforced my belief that 6 – 8 years is the sweet spot for drinking many of these wines! Standouts for me were the Riservas from Carpineto and Ricasoli, as they had their tannins well under control.

A few Vino Nobile di Montalcinos available…never enough…I love those wines! Carpineto again with a beautiful ’18 Riserva, and two from Boscarelli were also wonderful – ’18 Regular and ’17 Riserva.

Last but not least, lots of Brunello di Montalcinos to try! Almost all were 2018s, and to be honest most were too young to drink now! Tannic but at least not woody…give them at least 4 or 5 years or decant for a couple of hours in advance. Frescobaldi’s Castelgiocondo and Altesion’s were the smoothest for now.

Finally, some outliers I had to try!

I don’t drink/can’t afford Burgundy, but Doudet-Naudin is a favorite producer from the past. ’20 Maranges Les Clos Rousseau and ’18 Savigny Les Beaune Aux Petits Liards were very nice, quite ripe Pinot Noir for Burgundy and the oak was under control.

And can’t pass up Mondavi! ’19 Napa Valley Cab was ripe with good structure…too bad the To Kalon Reserve already sold out!

Finally, K Vintners from Washington State! Their Wine of Substance Cabernet Sauvignon bottling might be the best cab deal anywhere…made in Cali style with beautiful black currant fruit, not too much oak or tannin. But the star, as always, was their Syrah! ’20 MCK (Motor City Kitty) was a huge, brooding monster! Years away from softening, but what fruit and structure…no wonder Parker gave it 95+ points!

Total of 41 wines tasted…not bad!

Back tonight to do Piedmont and other areas…will report tomorrow! And follow me live at @sbwinepage. on X (formally Twitter).

Stephen

2024 VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL – PIEDMONT

Ah, the wines of Piedmont…or Piemonte, as the Italians call it!

From the country’s northwest upper corner, this is where the Nebbiolo grape really shines, making what some consider some of the greatest, and most ageable, red wines in the world – Barolo and Barbaresco. Both are always 100% Nebbiolo, with stringent requirements for aging before release. Both also have the prestigious DOCG rating.

These wines – particular Barolos – can be difficult to evaluate and drink when they are young. The tannins are often searingly mouth-puckering, and they don’t start to soften for 6+ years…and great vintages/producers can make wines that last for decades! But when they do soften, it can be an amazing experience.

The flavour profile includes earthy, dark cherry fruit with herbal overtones, little oak influence and a long, long finish. Barolo is famous for having an aroma of violets, although that may be in peoples’ minds! When mature – which can often take 10+ years and last for another 10 – it can really be something to taste and savour. Barbarescos, in general, are more approachable earlier, although some riservas last as long or longer than Barolos.

Cost…well, that just keeps going up and up. On the one hand, these are – in my opinion – some of the greatest wines in the world, and collectors go crazy for them. So given rarity and ageability, prices from $60 – $150, are not surprising. And when you compare them to Bordeaux and Burgundy, they are far cheaper and represent not just better wines but way better value (if $100 can be considered value).

I encourage people to try them at the festival, but beware…all the wines will be young and powerfully tannic. But you can get a sense of just how much is there, and what they might turn into.

For wineries at the VIWF this year, check out Marchesi di Barolo, Bosio Family Estates, Damilano, Chiarlo, Pio Cesare and Vietti.

Enjoy!

Stephen

2024 Vancouver International Wine Festival – Tuscany 2

There are two more Tuscan wines I really like and have collected for years – Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montalcino.

Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello might be Tuscany’s most famous wine…and it can also be its best (and most expensive).

It has to be made from Sangiovese – 100 % — and must be aged a minimum of two years in oak, four months in bottle (Riservas need an extra year). The wine must also have a minimum alcohol level of 12%. For all of, Brunello also is awarded the DOCG designation.

As for taste, drinkability…and cost? Taste wise, they are more full-bodied wines that those of Chianti, and generally more tannic. Dark cherries, balsam herbs are some of the flavours…I only notice the oak with the Riservas, and actually like the “regular” ones better because of it! They drink remarkably well on release, although I tend to wait 6 – 8 years to starting drinking them in good vintages. They can age for 20+ years. Cost, unfortunately, keeps going up…most are now $60+ plus tax. But when they are mature, they provide an amazing drinking experience!

At the festival this year, look for Brunellos from Altesino, Carpineto, Poderi Brizio, Poggio Landi and Frescobaldi (the Castelgiocondo bottling)

Vino Nobile di Montalcino

Vino Nobile can often be confused by people with Brunello, which is too bad because it is a great wine in its own right!

Also made from Sangiovese (Prugnolo version), it must have at east 70% of that grape, although many of the best producers make it 100%. Two years aging, one year in wood are required, an extra year for Riservas.

The flavour profile is similar to Brunello, but it can be a softer and smoother right out of the gate. Herbal cherries here as well, not as much wood. Interestingly, it has a similar aging profile as Brunello, but can be much lower in price…you can find some very nice wines for $40 – $50! Unfortunately, there aren’t that many in our stores, which is a real shame!

That shows at the Festival this year, as only a couple of producers are there. Fortunately, they are good ones – Carpineto and Boscarelli.

That’s it for today…tomorrow look for my final blog on Italy at the Festival, with a focus on Piedmont!

Stephen

2024 Vancouver International Wine Festival – Chianti

Italy is the feature country at the 2024 Vancouver International Wine Festival and there are over 40 wineries coming! In this blog I will focus on those from Tuscany, and in particular Chianti.

Chianti

This title should be way more than that…Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, Chianti Classico Grand Selezione…but all of these wines have a few things in common.

First, they are all red wines and the main grape is Sangiovese, which is mandated by Italian wine authorities. Usually, Sangiovese makes up over 80 % of these wines, although up to 20 % can come from Canaiolo and Colorino (indigenous varietals) and Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (more recent additions).

The other commonality is that all of these wines are Denominazione di origine controllata e garantita (or DOCG), the highest classification in Italy. All DOCG wines from each producer are analysed and tasted by government-licensed judgement panel before being bottled.

Where they differ mostly is in how long they are aged before being released. “Regular” Chianti is the quickest to market – after 12 months. That is followed by Chianti Classico Riserva, which must be aged 24 months, of which 3 is in bottle. The most stringent criteria are for Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. They must come from estate-owned grapes only, be bottled at the winery, and come from a single vineyard or selection of the best grapes. Minimum aging is 30 months, of which 3 in in bottle.

So, what does that mean for the taste, drinkability…and cost? Taste wise, all have dried, earthy cherries, a touch of herbs and lip-smacking acidity. They vary in the amount of tannin and oak/wood character…the longer aged ones can have more, especially when younger, although the best don’t because the fruit is so full bodied.

For aging, it depends on what style you like and the quality of the vintage. Chianti and Chianti Classico Riserva can drink really well on release, although I have lots in my cellar from good vintages that evolve beautifully from 8 – 10+ years. The tannins soften and the wine becomes amazingly smooth. Gran Selezione tends to have the highest tannins, so I usually start drinking mine after about 8 years. They can last beautifully for 10 – 15 years!

Cost, as expected, goes up…way up…as you move up from Chianti to Gran Selezione. The cheapest regular Chiantis here in BC can go for $15 – $20 (plus tax), but those from better producers are in the $30 range. Riservas – the better ones – can be anywhere from $25 – $50+. And the Gran Seleziones usually start at $50 and go way up. Frankly, my focus is usually on the best Riservas, as they offer a great balance between quality, ageability and cost.

At the Festival this year, some of the best producers to look for include Tenute di Arceno; Carpineto; Mazzei; Ricasoli; Rocca della Macie and Ruffino. Each may have all levels of Chianti, so they are a great chance to taste the difference!

That’s it for today…tomorrow look for my blog on my two other favourite Tuscany wines – Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montalcino!

Stephen

@sbwinepage

VIWF TASTING NIGHT #1 – Old Favourites are Still Favourites!

It was the first time I had ever been given two nights of media passes to the Vancouver International Wine Festival – so I needed a plan to optimize my tasting experience!

The easiest thing to do would be to simply do the themed countries – in this case those from South America – one night, and then the rest another.

So that’s what I did (for the most part…I added Australia in with SA) …but decided to flip the order. That meant BC, France, Italy and USA on Thursday – and it turned out great! I tasted 40 odd wines, and found – surprise, surprise – old favorites are still my favourites!

Whites first…

After my usual 30 min in the on-site store to start (a must if you want to buy, as some of the wines sell out quickly and the line-up gets nuts at the end), I started with dry Whites by varietal. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon Blends, and then Riesling.

I’m a fan of big, Cali style Chards (meaning oak, vanilla, butter, nuts), and quickly confirmed my old favorites were still my favorites!

Beringer Private Reserve remains the standard bearer for me – a stunning, full-bodied wine, lots of butter, toasty vanilla, citrus and nuts! Another favorite was the Qwam Qwmt from Nk Mip in Osoyoos, which is a similar style, but not as intense. A surprise was the Astra Reserve from Lake Breeze in Naramata. Similar to the above, not quite as big, and very few cases available.

For the S/S blends, only one stood out, but it was amazing! McWatters White Meritage from the OK Valley is a gorgeous, full-bodied wine with just a touch of oak to go with bright, dry citrus fruit. It reminded me of the old Sumac Ridge Meritage!

BC Rieslings were strong across the board, made in the crisp, dry, low alcohol style we do so well. Ex Nihilo, Fort Berens and Phantom Creek all had great examples.

On to the reds..

Chateau Pesquie was the lone Rhone wine there, but this Ventoux-based producer is one of my favourites. I drink the Les Terraces all the time; at $19 it is a steal! But their higher end, Syrah dominated wines are serious mid-term cellar candidates – 1912M, Quintessence and Artemia. Can’t wait to go there this September!

Italy next, with both Tuscany and Piedmont well represented. Mostly Barolos from the latter – can be a bit hard to taste young because of the tannin, but Giovanni Rosso and Michel Chiarlo each had a couple of great single vineyards. Never cheap – $60 to $70 – but after 10+ yrs of aging they become magical!

A full range of Chiantis from Tuscany – Classico, Riserva and Selezione. Felsina and Mazzei stood out. Funny, that even when young (it was mostly 2017 – 2020 vintages) they aren’t overwhelmed by the wood or tannins…and have lots of dried cherry fruit and acidity to carry them through 5 – 10 years of development. A special shout out again to Carpineto, who also had their 2018 Vino Nobile di Montalcino to taste. Their wines were so amazing at Carlino this week, I can’t wait to see how these young ones age!

A few more old-time favorites to finish from the USA…plus a couple of surprises. Robert Mondavi had all 3 Cabs to taste, including the iconic To Kalon Reserve! My visit and tasting in Napa Valley in 1990 were a big reason I fell in love with wine, and it was great to see these wines show so strongly when young. But definitely given them at least 5 years! Even the 2019 Napa Valley bottling had strong tannins.

The latest Stags’ Leap Cab was another winner, although it tasted even younger than the Mondavi wines. This is the regular Cab, so hard to imagine how big the SLV would be! Give it 5 – 8 years to mellow out a bit.

I ended with two surprises! The first was an Oregon Pinot Noir…2018 Leland Vineyard by Erath Vineyards. It was stunning at 5 yrs old, with great wood/cherry fruit balance, just a touch of vanilla and still medium, ripe tannins. It would give many Burgundies a run for their money…I bought some!

And finally, Pundit Syrah! I didn’t realize Chateau St. Michelle in Wash State made this…it is a major fruit bomb, but not jammy and has good structure. I have done short term cellaring in the past of this wine, and it gets even better.

I finished off with a treat – for myself! Only one Port producer there, but Graham’s had their 2012 Malvedos Vintage Port. These ‘single quintas’, usually made in general non-vintage years, have been great bargains in the past. I have collected them in half bottles with great success. Only a full body this time, but so ripe and young, even at 11 years old! I would say it has at lease another 10 years in it, although drinks beautifully right now.

A great night…can’t wait for tasting night number two on Friday!

SB

Taste of Tuscany at the 2023 VIWF

The first wine dinner for the 2023 VIWF was at Carlino Restaurant and it was amazing! Food, wine, company…couldn’t be better. Carpineto Winery rules at Carlino!

Started with the opener…NV Chardonnay Brut was supposed to have some residual sugar, but I couldn’t taste it. Crisp, dry, fruity, perfect with Wild Board Lardo crostini!

’17 Chardonnay even better! Yes, it’s oaked, but beautiful…medium gold, touch of butter and vanilla, medium body, in amazing shape for six years old. Nice with green salad and candied walnuts.

Then on to the big boys! Three vintages – count’em, three – of the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva. 2010, 2007, 2005 – each better than the last! Virtually no oak, lots of dried cherries and earth, deep red colour. They were all still very young but drinking beautifully. And they paired exceptionally well with the with the Wild Boar Ragu Pico.

As if that wasn’t enough…three more wines to go with Bistecca! ’17 Cab was in beautiful shape to start, again, almost no wood. Cab plus Sangiovese and Syrah in the ’12 Molina Vecchio, and the Syrah shone through beautifully.  Finally, the ’12 Poggio Sant’Enrico was 100% Sangiovese and tasted like a mature Chianti Classico Riserva. All were perfect matches to the Bistecca, which was the best I have ever had – rare inside, perfectly seared and crusty on the outside

And like we needed dessert! ’99 Vin Santo del Chianti is dessert in a glass, but also went great with Castagnaccio (almond cake). 14 Years old?  Crazy!

What a great night! Thanks to Carpineto, Carlino Restaurant and the 2023 VIWF. Great start!

SB

Okanagan Falls and Skaha Lake Spring Release Tasting Kicks Off the 2023 Season in Style

As usual, the first big wine tasting of the year was the Okanagan Falls and Skaha Lake Spring Release…and it didn’t disappoint!

Twelve wineries were represented and they poured a mix of red, white arose and sparkling new releases. Here is what stood out for me. Note that prices are before tax and most wines are only available at the wineries or VQA wine shops.

Sparkling

Lots of crisp, dry sparklers; mostly non-vintage, with almost all wineries having one. Interesting, a couple had single serving cans, which makes perfect sense for the long, hot days to come.

Highlights for me included Vendetto Frizzante from Crescent Hill made from Verdello ($27.99), Sparkling Chardonnay from Mayhem ($8 a can) and Blanc de Noirs by Stag’s Hollow ($25.00).

White

White wines continued to be, in general,  much stronger than reds – fruitier, less wood and better value for money. Among the highlights were 2021 Viogniers from Blasted Church ($24.00) and Liquidity ($30.00 ), 2021 Pinot Grigio from Bonamici ($20.00), and a stunning ’18 Gewurztraminer from Nighthawk ($21.00) that was bone dry!

Rose

Roses also continued to be strong, although prices continue to climb. The standout for me was the 2022 Dolcetto Rosado ($25.00) from Stag’s Hollow. Bone dry, made in a fuller body style like those from Tavel in France, it was amazing!

Reds

As mentioned above, the red wines aren’t impressing me as much as the others. The Cabernet-based wines are very tannic (see previous blogs on the “big red wine” syndrome) and even the Pinot Noirs have more tannin/less fruit than you would expect. And don’t get me started on prices…

Having said that, some nice Syrahs from Blasted Church ($32.00) and Black Market Winery ($35.00), both northern Rhone style with pepper, black fruit and dusty tannins.

The most consistent red wine producer – and overall, perhaps best winery in this area – is Stag’s Hollow. Its Syrah ($32.00) was delicious, as was its regular Pinot Noir ($30.00). There are reserve and/or single vineyard versions of both that weren’t available to taste I recommend as well (although those are getting close to $40). And don’t sleep on their Dolcetto! Still $26, it is an Italian look-a-like, with earthy cherries, good acidity, very little oak.

Thanks again to the Okanagan Falls/Skaha Lake Winery Association, and the Vancouver Club…a first class event like it is every year!

SB

Wine Festival 2020 – France!

So great to see that France is the feature country for this year’s Vancouver International Wine Festival!

Even better, it looks like the majority of the producers are from the south of France, my favourite part, as that means lots of Grenache and Syrah-based wines.

So here is a quick primer of wineries/wines to go check out based on what is on the website. We still don’t know the exact wines yet, but this will give you a good start.

For the northern Rhone – meaning Syrah for the reds – a couple jump out at me. Chapoutier is a world renowned wine maker and negotiant, so look for Hermitage, Crozes Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas – all won’t be cheap, but will be fabulous to taste!

Paul Jaboulet is another famous northern Rhone producer. In fact, his Hermitage La Chapelle has a reputation as one of the greatest wines in the world! He also makes one of my favourite wines – the Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert.  And Jean Luc Colombo is a producer to look for as well, as he makes great single vineyard Cornas.

For the southern Rhone – where Grenache and blends are the focus – there are lots of choices!

Domaine Boutinot makes great Gigondas. And both Gabriel Meffre and Michel Gassier produce wonderful Chateauneuf du Pape (the latter under the Les Halos de Jupiter label). Gassier also  makes some interesting wines as a negotiant in other parts of the south.

And don’t forget the so-called lesser regions! Chateau Pesquie is there from the Cotes du Ventoux, and they make stunning reds like Terrasses and Quintessence. Gerard Bertrand is also in attendance and he makes some nice wines in the Languedoc, Roussillon and Corbieres.

That should give you a good start!

Next, I will look at wineries from other countries that are worth trying, including Italy, the USA and from right here in BC.

The Festival runs from Monday February 24 to Saturday February 29. Lots of events still have tickets available, as do the evening tastings on Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

Hope to see you there!

SB

www.sbwinesite.com

The Annual Bordeaux Release Frenzy – and Why not to get sucked into it!

Okay, its that time of the year again, both for the annual release of the new Bordeaux…and my blog about how to avoid it!

Now, as I say every year, I know that Bordeaux makes probably the world’s most famous wines. And they are definitely what most wine lovers – and dweebs like me – covet. I admit it – when I started out in wine, these were the ones that I bought for my cellar.

But over the past 35 years, I have learned and evolved as a wine drinker…and learned a few things. So let me pass some of them on to you!

1. If you haven’t tried Bordeaux before, do it before you invest the big bucks

This is the first thing I tell people who ask me about Bordeaux or any other wine. You need to try a wine before you buy it, particularly if you are going to spend a lot of money on it.

Red Bordeaux is a blend of four or five major grapes (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc). But more importantly, it is made in a style that emphasizes wood and herbs over fruit. This is not a California wine, and it won’t get fruiter as it gets older. Try it first…if you like it, then go for it. But if you go “meh” …there are other options for you.

2. 99% of the wines are overpriced and not worth it

Even if you do like the style, the vast majority of the wines are way overpriced, and not worth it. You really need $100+++ to get a decent wine…and, in my opinion, that is just too much money. I can give you lots of other wines that you can buy 2 bottles or more for that price that are better value.

3. Except for the best, most expensive wines, they won’t get better as they age

This is perhaps the biggest myth of Bordeaux…buy it young and tannic, but after 15+ years it will evolve into something amazing.

Sorry, but that is a bunch of bull****!

If it is woody and herbal when young, chances are it will be like that when it is old too. Again, the most expensive wines may be different, but the vast majority will never get any different or better as they age.

4. Don’t fall for they hype

I’m a PR guy, that’s what I do for a living. So believe me when I tell you…don’t fall for the “vintage of the century” stuff! There are good years and bad years, but it rarely ever gets amazing…and certainly not amazing enough to justify the price.

5. Don’t buy the wine…but go get free boxes!

Finally, if you have or are building a wine cellar, I do recommend one thing about the annual Bordeaux release…go and get the beautiful wooden boxes that are left over after the wines are sold! Many chateaux pack their wines in gorgeous 12 bottle wooden boxes, and most stores just throw them out after the sale (since most people can’t afford to my more than a couple at a time). But the boxes – turn them on their side, and…voila, instant wine rack, and eminently stackable! Go grab a few (I know I will).

So, there you go…my annual Bordeaux blog…take it or leave it, but as they say in the business…buyer beware!

SB

www.sbwinesite.com